Tête en bas

Ochre Pit

It’s freezing cold when we wake up the next morning. A good excuse to get ready quiet fast, and be back on the road, heading to Ochre Pit, a place known to be a source of pigment for aboriginal people. Sacred place, traditionally just for men.

Ormiston Gorge

If most of the place we stopped on the road offer just a quick 15 minutes walk, Ormiston Gorge offer a nice little trail, in order to discover the back of the gorge, and then to climb to an other great viewpoint.

Glen Helen Gorge

That means, for us, the end of the road. We could go on if we want, in order to do a loop. But we have to be back in Alice tomorrow morning, to meet Sara. An other italian girl, who contacted us after we put an post on couchsurfing saying that we were looking for a 3rd travelers to jump in the car in order to reduce the cost as much as possible. She was still in Copenhagen one week ago when she contacted us. She’s arriving today in Alice. Just on time. The road go on, but is recomanded for 4×4 only. And we might have an opportunity to come back here. Maybe. We’ll see!

Ellery Creek Big Hole

After a very quiet morning (including a very nice staff practice and an other visit to the Chasm with a better light) we’re back on the road. Next stop at the Ellery Creek Big Hole. The area is known for all its little pool. Real pleasure, during summer time, to cool down. But with temperature between -1 and -4 by night and 15-20 during the day, we’re not really motivate to wet our toes.

Serpentine Gorge

Few km further, with a very nice view point.

We leave the gorge at the end of the afternoon. A short drive after, the car is stop again, on a rest area where we’ll spend the night. There’s a few other campervan, and a really nice campfire. We stop to talk with people, and to take some warmth. But those people are not so much inspiring, and we don’t stay for too long.

Who’s Minma exactly? It’s what australian call a « station wagon ». One of those pretty long car, that make travelers happy, because it’s so easy to sleep inside. The idea might sounds strange, but I did buy a car in order to go even slowly when traveling. It’s nice to know that I can stop as long as I want, anywhere, now. The other good thing with those travelers car, is that they have millions of kilometers behind them, and you sometime have the feeling that they will never stop. And, because of there age, they are really, really cheap. So here I am, as a motorized traveler. And we have decided, with Hripsime, to discover the West macdonnell Ranges, in order to check that the car works well. And, of course, to discover the landscape. Because when you leave Alice heading west, it’s just amazing.

The program is pretty basic. Follow the road, and stop every 10 to 40 kilometers, to enjoy all the amazing things to see.

Simpson Gap

Gap are quiet common in the area. It’s those little gorge, carved by river in the surrounding mountain. Interesting to realize that water, so absent from the landscape, just create every thing here.

Stanley Chasm

Probably the most known stop in the West macdonnell Ranges. Here, the wall of the mountain are so close that you have the feeling to walk in a corridor. It doesn’t miss that much that you can touch both side of the mountain. Stanley Chasm is full of majesty, and of a tranquil power so amazing.

The place is gorgeous. We left Alice Springs quiet late, so we decide to stop here for the night. When I’m walking between those stone wall, I can’t stop thinking that it would be an amazing place for fire picture. And then, it’s full moon. With the moon straight over the chasm, the view is probably amazing. But… well, it’s really cold during the night. I’m not sure I’ll be feeling courageous enough to go back…

It was, of course, without taking in account the random meeting you always make when traveling. I don’t remember his name. He was Irish. He lived in Hungarian for a while, before coming to Australia. He came to start a fire. We talked a little bit together. He told us that his daughter was coming with some friend from Alice to celebrate the full moon. There was his daughter, his son, his wife, two australians and a french. We all gather around the campfire, talking and enjoying its warmth. Until I saw to fire stick on a table. Not so long after, while the moon wast just perfect, we were lighting the place with our dancing flame. And it was the opportunity, for me, to play didgeridoo while the brother and the sister were singing traditional irish songs…

Jaab is from Netherland, but has been living in Australia for ten years or so. Louise is australian. They met a little bit more than one year ago. Since, they sold there houses and most of the things they owned, in order to buy “The Spiring of Curiosity”. An old bus, transformed to a 5 stars house, where they now live full time, traveling -as slowly as possible- across Australia. Travelers, couchsurfers. The Spirit of Curiosity is big enough to allow them to host other travelers they meet on the road. I’ve seen there profile while they were in Coober Pedy. they were the only other couchsurfer while I was there. I didn’t contact them immediately, and when I looked for there profile again, they were already gone. A few weeks later, they were in Alice Springs. Hripsime contact them before flying to the red center, as I was not in the best condition to host her myself. That allows her to enjoy an amazing welcome in a bus more than comfy. Well, I do have to confess that I enjoy the comfort of the bus too. Jaab and Louise are just lovely. We spent a lot of amazing moment talking -most of the time while having food, and some wine. Travelers in the soul, with lot of anecdotes to share. If we talked about Europe, North America and Australia, we also talked about artificial intelligence, politics, economy, and so much more.

And finally, “the Spiring of Curiosity” had to go back on the road, heading north. We are going west. For a small loop, in the West Macdonnel Ranges. We’ll be coming back in Alice in a few days, and then heading to Uluru. Before going north too.

As usual, saying “good bye” was not really easy. But even if they have a long advance on us, they travel slower than we do. So we do have an appointment. Some where. Some time. Here. Or there. Or maybe somewhere else.

Hripsime is staying with two couchsurfers who are living in a bus. Jaap and Louise. Traveling around Australia in this giant bus, big enough to host people from time to time. They were planning to do a one day trip to Arltunga Historical Reserve and Trephina Gorge. And I was more than welcome to join.

Previously called “The Afghan Express” in homage to the Afghans Camelers who keep a permanent link for more than 150 years with the Red Center, “The Ghan” links Adelaide, in South Australia, to Darwin, in Northern Territories. A 2,979 kilometers trip that will takes you 3 days to complete.

The first track was following John MacDouall Stuart trail. Yes, the one who gives his name to the Stuart Highway. Still planning to tell you more about this one. On sunday the 4th of august 1929, the first train left Adelaide, boarding more than 100 passengers, heading to the remote town of Stuart. A town that, a few years later, will be named “Alice Springs”.

The Ghan crosses some of the most arid and hardest land of Australia. Subject to flash flood, fire, and even to termites. The legend says that one of the train staid blocked for 2 weeks at the same place, and that the motor engineer had to shoot wild goats to feed himself and the passengers.

In 1980, a new track was built, using concrete, termite proof. Still had to wait until 2004 for Darwin to be connected.

A trip aboard the Ghan is a unique experience, as are the landscape you’ll see from the train. MacDonnell Ranges in the south, the Red Center, and the tropical landscape in the north.

Interesting fact: the Ghan timetable is made for tourist. So the train stops for a few hours in Katherine, for passenger to be able to jump in a bus, and have a quick look around. Same in Alice, where you can stop for a few hours, or a few days, to have the time to visit Uluru. It’s not a real train trip. More a train cruse. Train drives by night when the landscape is not so much inspiring, and by day when you really want to see through your window. Definitely a unique way of traveling.

And what about the comfort? As usual, I’ve been traveling on a “poor” seat, taking the cheapest ticket I could find. And I just traveled from Katherine to Alice Springs. Only 1200 kilometers, traveled in 15 hours. People told me that the Ghan was a retirement house on wheel. That’s actually true if you stay in the most expensive part of the train. But if you’re happy with a simple seat, then you’ll meet all kind of travelers. Expect a nice comfort, but nothing exceptional. Wide folding seat, so you can rest, but with nothing to put your feet on. Less comfy that Amtrak in the States or Via Rail in Canada. But definitely better than the SNCF night train in France!

Anyway… the experience is unique and really nice. And I still keep the train as my favorite way of traveling!

I have this feeling that I’ve been asking too much those last weeks. Like if I had use all my “luck point”. It seems to me that it’s time to come back to a more simple way of doing thing, without asking any question. Just traveling simply. It’s hard to explain… maybe it’s just about thinking that everything is going to be just perfect, and admit that some time, there might be something going wrong. Yes, maybe I just need to connect again with reality.

Yesterday has been a little bit hard, but a good night helps me to feel much better. This morning, once again, the day starts with some staff practice. It’s just amazing how it hep me feeling so great. After that, I can just start my day slowly. Packing my backpack, and be back on the road, thumbs up. Two minutes later, a car stops and drive me in town. Quick internet break, and I’m now on the road to the gorges. I’m thinking with amusement that I’ve been hitchhiking exactly at the same place, just a few days ago, with Mara, in order to get back to Alex and Petrina’s house. Wait has been shorter. Still… I didn’t have that much to wait. A really friendly guy stop. He’s driving to the hospital, 7 km from here. When I tell him that I’m going to the gorge, he just says something like “well, I can take a little detour I guess”. And he drops me, 25 km later, at the entrance of the campground, after a great ride, talking about nothing and everything. I thank him, and wish him a great day before I start walking again.

The place seems perfect. Calm and relax. I already know that I would have stay a few more days. But I have a train to catch tomorrow. I walk toward the campground, and put my tent in a tranquil place. Before I start a new adventure.

I grab a few information. There’s a lot of great hike to do. There’s also the possibility of renting a canoe, at an honest price. Nothing available for this afternoon, but maybe tomorrow morning… I’ll see. As for now, I take my backpack, my flute and my didgeridoo. I can’t really leave them behind me anymore. They are part of me as is my camera.

The hike starts with a nice climb up, giving a few great view over the gorge, before walking away from the cliffs. This place is as quiet as I was expecting. The sun is a little bit hot, but not too much. I’m feeling well. I’m me. I’m walking.

I arrive at the “Rock hole”. Amazing falls during wet season, it’s just a little stream and a place of coolness today. I stop. Play a little bit of music, walk to the gorges, and start walking back.

I meet three austrian guys, with whom I talk up to the campground. One more time, my didgeridoo is a reason of many question, that I answer with the same pleasure as usual. Maybe I should have buy a few of them before leaving Melbourne, and sell them on the road! I really feel that this way of making didge is totally new, as everybody just give me exactly the same comment: “that’s the first time I see one like that”.

Back to the campground, for a quiet evening. I’m writing on my computer when I hear a little bit of noise. I give a look. There’s a really nice python, wandering in the campground. Great beast!

It’s always at that time that a little voice just remind you “don’t forget that you’re walking barefoot. And don’t forget that you’re sleeping in a tent. On the ground”. Well… I imagine that I’m a little bit to big for this guy. The fact that I wake up alive, the next morning, seems to confirm that.

I’ll spend the morning, canoeing on the river, being just amazed by a really relaxing place. The gorge is just awesome.

I finally said good bye to Mara. She’s taking the plane in a few hours. And I’m driving back slowly to Katherine. Just want to take my time. I do a quick first stop, close to the springs, to have a look to the river, and go back on the road.

I’ll do an other detour, stopping at Edith Falls, where I also take the time for a small walk, in order to see the falls. It’s nice to be back walking. Haven’t done that for a while! When I reach the lake, I have a look to the water. I look the falls. Look the water again. Check the warmth. To cold for me. Definitely to cold. Well… that’s what I usually say. But I’ve decided to fight with this fear of cold water for a little while now. I’m just tired of seeing all those amazing place to swim, but staying on the shore, because I don’t want to swim in cold water. There was a time when it didn’t bother me. I’m quite cold proof outside, in the air. I do love water. It’s time for me to start swimming in cold water again. Put my feet. Put my knees. It’s really cold. Just a bad time to go through. I’m thinking. Water is part of me as much as I’m part of water. That’s just as simple as that. Water is my element, she’s waiting for me. I dive. It’s cold. I swim. Done. Not cold anymore. Of course, I knew this was going to happen. I’m laughing. I’m happy. I haven’t done that for ages! Swim up to the falls, swim back. Feeling so well!

Walk back to the car, and go back on the road.

Back in Katherine, I have a quite anxious message from Toni. Seems that we had a misunderstanding about the car, and she doesn’t understand why she can’t reach me. I meet her a little bit later. We have a talk about that. I give the car back, it will be easier.

I’m a little bit lost, in the middle of Katherine, not really knowing where to go now… I’m not going anywhere… spend a little while on internet, before I decide it could be a good idea to find a place to stay. The first hostel is closed. The second one too. I try a motel, but it’s way to expensive for me. I jump into a cab, who drive me to a campground, with better price. I’m back in my tent, in a campground with no soul, on the side of the road. Coming back to really is, sometime, a difficult experience!

I consider myself to be well balanced. I like this word, as in french, libra -my astrological sign- translate in “balance”. I do not believe in astrologic, but still like this coincidence. I’m not talking about being mentally balanced (hope I am!) but elemental balance. I’m feeling as strongly linked with water and fire, with air and earth. I like free diving as I like fire breathing. I like flying a kite as I like seating in the dust in the middle of the desert. I like being happy, wherever I am.

I was talking with Mara about Crater Lake, in Oregon. Probably one of the place I’ve find myself the most in peace. Air is absolutely transparent in perfect purity. As is the water of the lake. The rim cliffs, forming the caldera, embrace everything is a strong and unbreakable hug. The volcano’s fire calm down, a long time ago. But you can still feel it, everywhere around you. Is the creative fire, at the beginning of this perfect place. You can’t ignore it. I haven’t been to so many place where or the element mixes in such a perfect harmony. And that in those kind of place I feel in perfect harmony with my surrounding. In those kind of place that I can feel so strongly my own balance.

I slept in the back of the truck, with a amazing view on the sky. I heard a few times that Kakadu was one of the best place to look to a starry night. The park is not so far from here, and I guess we can enjoy the same awesome view. I’ve never seen so many starts before. Even the milky way is so intense that you can almost believe it’s a could in the sky. I didn’t really sleep during the night. I was just so happy… I still trust life, and she’s still giving back. I’m not asking anything else. Almost…

I wake up a little bit before sunrise. Took my camera, my flute and my didgeridoo. The water, the vapor twirling, the sandy ground and the trees around, the warmth, coming straight from the heart of the earth. I find my balance again. I find an other place where I’m in perfect harmony with my surrounding. The slowly howling of the didgeridoo just fits perfectly with the twirling of hot vapor.

Je me revendique comme une personne extrêmement équilibrée. Pour ça, j’aime bien utiliser le terme anglais « balanced » qui, même si je ne crois toujours pas en l’astrologie, convient très bien à la balance que je suis. Je ne parle pas d’un équilibre mental (que je pense quand même avoir !) mais d’un équilibre élémentaire. Je me sens autant en lien avec l’eau qu’avec le feu, avec l’air qu’avec la terre. J’aime faire de l’apnée et cracher du feu. J’aime faire voler un cerf volant et m’asseoir dans la poussière au milieu du désert. J’aime être heureux, peu importe l’endroit où je me trouve.

Je parlais avec Mara de Crater Lake, dans l’Oregon. Sans doute l’un des endroits où je me suis trouvé le plus en paix avec moi même. L’air est absolument transparent. D’une pureté parfaite. Tout comme l’eau du lac. Les lignes de crêtes déchiquetées des montagnes, et les falaises qui forment le cratère englobe le tout, dans un écrin qui semble indestructible. Le feu du volcan s’est apaisé il y a longtemps de cela. Mais on le sent toujours, tout autour de nous. Il est le feu créateur, à l’origine de cet endroit parfait. On ne peut l’ignorer. Je n’ai pas rencontré beaucoup de lieu où tout les éléments se rencontrent avec une telle harmonie. Ce sont dans les endroits comme ça que je me sens en complète communion avec ce qui m’entoure. Que je redécouvre mon propre équilibre intérieur.

J’ai dormi à l’arrière du camion, avec une vue imprenable sur le ciel. J’avais entendu dire depuis longtemps que Kakadu était l’un des plus beaux endroits pour observer le ciel. Je ne suis qu’à quelques centaines de kilomètres du parc. Je pense profiter du même ciel parfait. Jamais je n’ai vu autant d’étoiles. La voie lactée est tellement présente que l’on pense voir un nuage au milieu du ciel. Je n’ai pas vraiment dormi de la nuit. J’étais juste heureux, et bien. Je continue de faire confiance en la vie, elle continue à me le rendre. Je ne demande rien de plus. Ou presque…

Je me suis levé un peu avant le soleil. Mes parents vont bientôt devoir demander un exorcisme je crois. J’ai attrapé mon appareil photo, ma flûte, et mon didgéridoo. L’eau, les volutes de vapeur, le sol sableux et les arbres tout autour, la chaleur du ventre de la terre. J’ai retrouvé mon équilibre. J’ai trouvé un autre endroit où je suis bien. Où l’harmonie des éléments me permet de me dissiper doucement dans tout ce qui m’entoure. Le lent bourdonnement du didgéridoo s’est marié à merveille avec les volutes d’eau chaude.