Tête en bas

Things are going slower on one side, faster on the other. I was supposed to leave this morning for Wilson Promontory, but when I woke up, Richmond had posted on its Facebook wall that there will be more details tomorrow for “Richmond 365”. Sounds like a good reason to stay one more day here, in order to know what it is about. Keeping my fingers crossed, of course !

In all case, I’ve decided to interrupt my Melbourne experience. It was quite a hard decision to take. I met so many great people. Tammy, Drew, Nick, Ned, Rosie, Paul, Pamela, Heather, Hripsime… and I like being with Tao and Megan. Like it even more as I’m having fun with there two daughters. It took me a while to create this little friends network. People I don’t see often, but I’m just happy to know they are not to far. So… why leaving? Because my legs have been resting for to long. As I don’t have a job, days are some time a little bit to long. And I’ve been saying that for a little while now… I’m missing the desert. And the dust. Strange feeling…

What’s coming next? I really hope the next step will be a plane ticket to Vancouver. I really want 2012 to be a 367 days year. But if unfortunately Richmond doesn’t keep my profile, my next step will be Alice Spring. I let you check on the map. A cue? “In the middle of nowhere”. Not very far (500kms) from the famous Uluru. That I’ll definitely visit. If you remember well, I wasn’t sure between Perth and Brisbane. Being me as usual, between two choices, I take the 3rd one. I have a friend in Alice Spring at the moment, and she told me a lot of good thing about it. But she got me when she told me about the “Wide Open Space festival”. A festival in the middle of nowhere… Really appealing, don’t you think so? Departure saturday next week… if I’m not in a place!

For the next three days, I’ll forget gastronomy. Forget the hours spend in the kitchen. I have lot of fun cooking those last days, I’ll do a stop for a few days. Mode hiking, alone, with my backpack and my mini gaze stove!

 At first, it was just a little breeze. A very quiet one, without any consequence. We did not really know where it was blowing. Light swirls start to form soon after, bringing with them what seems to be a salty smell. He ignored all that, before realizing that he won’t be able to fight against the wind. Instead, he decided to let it goes. To let the wind carry him one step further. He sees, far away, an amazing peninsula. Trees, mountains, beaches… but he knows that there will be other steps. This was just for a couple of days… there was a rumor running. Winter was coming… further, way further, there was something else. Dust. Lot of dust. He remembered. No dust. Only happiness.

A flute starts playing. Will he start playing back?

I find the challenge really interesting. I took my camera with me, and decided to spend a whole day in Richmond, one of Melbourne suburb. Took 13000 pictures, used 3 camera batteries and 18 gigs of memory card. All in one day. Hope you’ll like the result.

“Confest is a life changing event”. I heard that a few time already. Well.. I heard a lot of things about Confest, and I was really interest to participate in one of the “hippiest festival in Australia”. I’m not really a hippie myself, but there usually a lot of interesting thing to discover and to learn in these kind of festival. Meeting new people, sharing new way of life, new philosophy, new idea, all that are definitely part of the reasons I love traveling. My first and only experience for those kind of event was Burning Man. It definitely changed my life. In a way I won’t even try to describe.

Confest happen twice a year. For Easter long week end and for New Year Eve. In the middle of nowhere (which can be almost everywhere when traveling in Australia). I went there with a lot of expectation. And came back with some sadness and disappointment.

Sadness? Why? Hard to explain… I found in Burning Man a temple for creativity, originality and imagination. A place where idea were blooming. At Confest, most of the workshop were about the same themes. Open your heart, be in harmony with yourself, yoga, healthy food… I have no problem with all that. I like hippies, I like there way of life. But I find sad that they always want to be in the same box. As if there was only one alternative life style. As if there was only one way to be in peace and in harmony with yourself. Do half an hour a day of yoga, eat balanced food, forget meet, meditate, connect with your inside you. I find all that so complicate! Can’t we be in peace without doing all that? Am I so much unbalanced? I was feeling the total opposite…

I like smiling to stranger. I like being happy with me, et I do find really sad to see that other person need someone to tell them “smile to other, be happy, love your fellows”. Maybe because it seems so natural for me… I don’t need someone to repeat for one hour that I’m awesome. I already know that. Presumptuous? Maybe a little…

It reminds me an experience I had, not so long ago. Someone who told me “you should says nice thing to people, they will stop to talk to you, and then it will be easier for you to sell your produce”. I feel exactly the same way… “You are at Confest, you have to love everybody, and you have to tell them”. No. I’m sorry. I won’t. And want to tell others how I feel when I want to. Not because I’m at Confest. For the same reason, telling a compliment to someone suddenly lose all its natural aspect. “He’s so good. He likes me. He’s so much into Confest spirit”. Non. I’m not into Confest spirit. I’m me. And only me. But it seems that you don’t want to see that. You just want to see me in a box.

All those cliches annoyed me a lot. Because altogether, their were way to much. I finally understand what annoyed me the most on sunday evening. There was those two young girls, doing light poise. They were not specially good, but they were having so much fun and pleasure! It was simple, fun, funny. And it made me realize that it was the first time I was seeing people playful. Having fun. Until now, I had just seen people being so serious trying to be perfect hippies! They had to be in contact with there inner themselves, they had to smile to everyone, they had to cuddle with stranger… so much complicate constraints, when I was just looking for simple exchange… I was just looking for fun… to enjoy my self a simple way… all that was way to serious for me. As if everybody has its own todo list to experience a perfect Confest. Everybody in the same box…

Don’t make me say what I did not say. I liked my Confest, and I took it as an opportunity to do a couple of experience. I went to a spontaneous quire (which was at a specific time, strange concept) who showed me how a crowd can be a great musical instrument. I participate to a “corridor of love”. I don’t remember the exact name… people form two raws, making a tunnel, that other people cross, closing there eyes. While you’re walking, strangers keep telling you that they love you. Really interesting and strange experience, as so many voice seems to be so true… perfect tons, beautiful voice… we just want to open our eyes, to stop, and meet this stranger. Until we realize that all that is only artificial. For be, it’s just a way to banalize love, to remove all its meaning, “I love you” becoming just a few word that anyone can tell to anyone else. I don’t want a stranger to love me. I want a stranger to be interest by me, to want to learn and exchange with me. To want to know who I am… I won’t say anything about parents who bring there child to those kind of experiences… I just saw kids who were looking bad, unhappy and oppressed…

I think one of my mane disappointment came from the complete lack of didgeridoo. The only one I heard during the 4 days of Confest… was mine. No, in Australia like everywhere else, hippies play djembe. I don’t have anything about the drum. After all, I love playing djembe to. But I was feeling that, in Australia, in the middle of people who want to be in touch with earth, with there roots, there was nothing more natural than a didgeridoo… ironically, while I was doing my best to have my didge heard in a drum circle, someone come to tell me “sorry, we would like to have to other drums where you’re sitting”. I almost told him that I was playing music to, explaining him that the instrument I was playing was a better one than an african drums to be played here… I didn’t see any reason to say that, and preferred to leave, disillusioned. Drumer were taking themselves to seriously too.

Conclusion came to me on the last day, while I was attending a workshop just before leaving. “Fairy tales and how to use them to heal personal wounds”. The workshop, really interesting by the way, finished with a visualization exercise, in order to see our inner monster, and talk to him. It works pretty well. Definitely better than I was expecting. I was really surprise to discover that my inner monster was an picture from my childhood, picture that I had forgotten a long time ago. But its message was quite simple “I left quite a while ago, you’re in peace with yourself”.

Maybe all the problem lays in this only sentence. I’m in peace and in harmony with myself. I found a balance that needs no yoga, no meditation, no forcing smiles. My smiles are natural, because I’m naturally in peace. I’m free. I’m traveling following the wind, the opportunity, going at my own pace. I’m a hippie with no material bounds, who likes others. My inner smile is auto fueled. I’m me. I’m happy. And I love sharing my happiness.

The cooker has been watching me for to long. It was time for me to finally try it. Megan just came back this afternoon with some fresh vegetables. That was exactly what I needed.

Galettes are really easy to make, with only quinoa, onions, yogurt and eggs. Just added some spice to that, hided some fresh biologic vegetables under. Really interesting result!

I’ll be away for a couple of day. In Australia, eastern is the occasion to go to Confest. An alternative festival, that some would compare to a Rainbow Gathering, other to Burning Man (on a very smaller scale). Will be able to told you more about that on my way back, next monday.

Wish lots of chocolate to all of you!

The very first time I heard Yann Tiersen, it was when I was staying with friends, in Paris. I was discovering the city as a tourist for the first time. A few years later, Amelie Poulin was in every theater, and everybody was in love with its music by Yann Tiersen. A few years later, again, I was listening, fascinated and touched, my friend Danielle playing “Comptine d’un autre été” on her piano, in her Portland’ shed. And finally, I was lucky enough to see him live, at “Festival de l’îlophone on Ouessant Island” last automn. His style has changed, evolved a lot, becoming more and more electronic. I loved it. So two days ago, while I was visiting Drew and Tammy, when I heard that Drew was not able anymore to go to the show Yann Tiersen was giving tonight in Melbourne Recital Center, I was more than happy to take its ticket. That’s one of the reason I love traveling. Because souvenirs mix with other souvenirs, bringing me from one place to another around the world. Remembering and living again… While Yann Tiersen was playing, I was at the same time in a music temple and in an old village hall, on a lost island, somewhere in Brittany.

Music temple? Really?

Not only the place just look gorgeous, with this very neat wood finish, but the sound quality is just awesome. A few time, I was just totally and completely immersed into the music. Surprising myself once, trying to “see” the sound around me.

Yann Tiersen’s music has evolved, with more synthetic sounds than before. But I have to confess that I like it even more!

And I even decide to be a real fan!

Sydney little hidden treasure is its botanical garden. In Melbourne, the not hidden treasure is definitely the Victoria’s Market. Of course, the botanical garden here is amazing to. And we can’t really compare a market and a botanical garden (even if there is a few links between both, that’s true). But having a market like that, not to far, is always a real pleasure.

Why? Imagine Jean Talon’s market, in Montreal. With more people, more choice, but same low price. Add to it an inside market, like Atwater, with lots of meat, fish, cheese… add some french market feeling, a somewhat from Chinatown, and lots of touristic stuff. The result is just perfect. One of those places where you want to go just for the pleasure of walking, looking, smelling, touching, checking… discovering fruits you didn’t even know they could exist. And just because of those fruits, you think that it could be a good reason to stay in Melbourne for a while…

When you’re discovering a new place, you grab information slowly. Picking up a word somewhere, a name somewhere else. They all stay quietly hidden in your brain, until something happen. It might be an other word, it might be something you see, or something you read… and then, you hear this little “click” that means that everything has finally find its place.

The very first building I spot in Melbourne was the Eureka tower. By far the highest building in the Skyline, but also -according to me- the most interesting… and the most beautiful of all them. I’ve pictured it from every angle, just to enjoy the way it interacts with other building, continuously changing its appearance.

Then, you have Southern Cross Station. An other interesting building, specially for the shape of its undulating roof. At the end of the train lines from Adelaide and Sydney, it’s one of the major station in Melbourne transport network.

You can complete all that with Ballarat, the 3rd inner city by size in Australia (after Canberra and Toowoomba).

I got the missing link when Ned ask me if I’ve ever heard about “James Scobie”. The answer was, obviously, “no”.

The Eureka Stockade, or Eureka Rebellion, was organized in 1854, by gold miners in Eureka Lead, a suburb of Ballarat. The first sparkle was the murder of James Scobie… The Rebellion grew quickly as miners get organized. It ended in a fight with the victoria’s army and police on the 3rd of december, resulting in the deaths of more than 30 peoples (which, by the way, is the most significant conflict in Victoria’s history; Australian colonization was really quiet… as long as you were not aboriginal). Miner were protesting against the expense of the Miner’s Licence and government taxation. Public offered mass support to the “rebels” who were captured and placed on trial in Melbourne, resulting in the very first while mall suffrage for elections for the lower house in the Victorian parliament. Some says that the Eureka Rebellion is the birth of democracy in Australia, while other says it was just a political revolt.

While resentment was rising amongst the miner, they elected a leader, burned there miner’s Licence, and adopt a new flag. The Eureka flag; A blue flag, bearing the Southern Cross. Very similar to the Australian one, but protestor removed the british union jack. In 1893, Banjo Paterson (an australian poet) wrote:

“The English flag may flutter and wave,
where the world wide oceans toss,
but the flag the Australian dies to save,
is the flag of the Southern Cross.”

Banjo Paterson also wrote “Waltzing Matilda”, a widely known bush ballad, often referred as “the unofficial national anthem of Australia”.

A few days ago, I red about this poem, and learnt that “Matilda” was the name of the blanket used by swagman (australian hobo). And that was the reason I decided to taste the Alpha Ale, from the Matilda Brewery, at the Lui Bar, on the 55th floor. Facing… the Eureka tower!

A few days ago, again, I was looking at the clouds reflexion, in a tower. Its name? The Souther Cross tower, of course.

Located 236 meters above sea level, on the 55ht floor of a gorgeous sky scrapper, the Lui Bar offers an awesome view on Port Philip Bay, on the south side of the Yarra River. The Lui Bar is one of those elegant places, where you know that you’ll have a quiet time, enjoying a little chat with some friend, while being amazed by one of Melbourne best view. In this kind of place, absolutely nothing is forgotten to make you feel the luxury of the place. I’ve experienced a couple of those “high in the sky” bars, in Montreal, Quebec or Sydney. This one beats them all, and as soon as you enter the building. A smiling waitress is here to welcome you, and to check with the bar if there is some room. She will then escort you to the elevator. Forget about the usual boring business elevator, with a small mirror and a TV telling you the last economic news. A dark room, with soft neon light, and world music. You climb the 55 floors very quickly, and then just get in the Lui Bar.

Definitely quiet on this sunny wednesday afternoon. The waiter told me that I’ll have the place all for me. I like the idea. Comfy and design couches every where, nice bulb lamps… all with a little “timeless” trendy touch… if you prefer, you can also enjoy your drink on the terrace. For the little story, big bags are now forbidden in the bar, because two parachutists jumped from the bar terrace, two weeks ago. Well, I won’t jump. I definitely prefer to stay and enjoy my beer.

And, of course, this awesome view on the south shore of the Yarra River…

The menu is definitely what you would expect in a place like that. Here, snack means “oyster” or “caviar”. They also have an amazing list of cocktails, all coming with there own little history. But yes, the view, the feeling, the name, all that has a price. So even the beer was quite expensive, specially on a traveler budget. Lets face it: I come here for the view, and for that, it’s definitely worth it. A perfect place for visitors who would like to relax after a long afternoon wandering around Melbourne CBD.

Time for me to finish my “Alpha Pale Ale”, from the Matilda Bay Microbrewery. With a strong hop taste, from the beginning to the end, a beer that lacks a bit of subtlety; would have been nice to have something else than bitterness…

During all those months I’ve been traveling in english-speaking country, I discovered that they are a couple of english word that I’ll never know how to say properly. I remember repeating “post-card” so many time, in so many shop, hoping that someone will finally understand that I’m just looking for a nice picture, that you can write on the back, and send by the post. I’ve always wander why no one seems to understand me on this one.

I had exactly the same problem when trying to say “Ballarat” .Trying tons of different intonations, changing the accentuation, the tone… sometime, people understand. But most of the time, it took me a couple of try…

Ballarat is one of those australian cities, than suddenly rise in the middle of nowhere, because someone find some gold nearby. Apart from that, there’s nothing really inspiring to say about it. Two main streets, a nice railway station, a few restaurant and shop… I though it was all. And the first few preview I had, from the train station to the car rental, and then when driving through were not really inspiring… until we discovered a botanical garden. As I already wrote, botanical garden seems to be a must do in all australian city. So after Sydney, Melbourne and Hobart, we decide to add Ballarat to the list.

We start our visit on the shore of Wendouree Lake, under a blue sky, and a sun who was telling us that is summer job was over on this side of earth, and that we was slowly going to warm up the north hemisphere again. To bad for those who expected warm temperature all year long in Melbourne…

Iris loves collecting strange animal, and I think that’s one of the thing she likes the most in Australia. One more time, there was plenty of interesting creatures. Most of them were supposed, I think, to be duck. I might need some confirmation though…

We left the lake just after that, to cross a street, discovering that the official botanical garden was on the other side. This was just a nice little park. The gardens were even nicer, full of colors and beautiful trees. Of course, not as impressive as the other we’ve visited in Australia, but remember that Ballarat is only 85,000 habitants.