Tête en bas

I’ve been quiet for a little while. I think it’s important to alternate quiet period and more busy period. That’s what I did over the last two weeks in Alice Springs. Well, when I arrived here, I was quite motivated to find a job, and start my quest immediately. I was really interested to work as a guide, and I started doing all the different things that need to be done… I just ended up catching the flu, a pretty big one, that left me half alive in a backpackers for a few days. During that time, I had feedback for the guide job opportunity. ” Someone who speaks french is exactly what we need at the moment. Bilingual is even better. You have a nice profile. That’s perfect. But to bad, you’re on a Working Holiday Visa, you can stay only 4 months, so we’re not going to hire you”. And at the same time, I was listening to this french girl, with such an accent that even a caricaturist won’t try to copy it, explaining with such a bad vocabulary that she just got a job in a cafe where I applied too. Seems that my boobs where not as good as hers…

I’ve decide to forget about finding a job in Alice. Instead, I was going to start a secret plan. A plan I’ve been working on the last few days. It supposed to happened this sunday. I’ll be able to tell you more by then. So at the moment, I’m just relaxing and enjoying, leaving in a caravan, with no door, no heater, no mattress, but internet. Little bit cold by night, but people here are really friendly. And I can stay a couple of days, as long as I help a little bit from time to time.

My friend Hripsime, that I met in Melbourne, just arrived in Alice Springs. I was really happy to see her back at the airport. Now have a new travelmate. Adventures starting again soon !

John McDouall Stuart is one of the most famous australian explorer. And one of those who spent the most time discovering the outback.

Born in Scotland, the 7 of september 1815, he’s the youngest boy of a family of 9 children. He studied at the Scottish Naval and Military Academy as a civil engineer, before he moved to Australia in 1838, at 23. He’s a slight delicately built man, about 168cm tall, and weighing less that 55 kg. When in arrived in South Australia, in 1839, there’s nothing to find there. He worked as a surveyor, in the semi arid scrub of the newly settled districts, making out blocks for settlers and miners. If life in camp is hard, Stuart quickly get a reputation of being someone extremely precise.

In 1844, Captain Sturt took the young Stuart with him on an exploration journey to the Simpson Desert, one of the aridest part of South Australia. When the commandant in second died, Sturt appointed Stuart in his place. They finally managed to came back to Adelaide, but Sturt will never totally recover from the expedition, and it took Stuart one year to be able to work again. It’s only a few years later than Stuart will start heading expedition by himself.

Because of its small seize, Stuart looks very friendly to aboriginal people, who quiet often help him, as they seems to find him less dangerous than the other white people. Known to be alcoholic, with sight problem, his body was still able to suffer lots of privation, and he had a very strong will. With not so many friend, he tried to avoid crowd as much as he can. He didn’t really matter what we was wearing, our how people saw him. He had everything of a sociopath, but seems to be highly trust for his survival skills in the outback.

He had already lead two majors expeditions -leading them almost to what’s now the border between the Northern Territory- when Australian government starts the telegraph contest, with a 2,000 pounds price to win. The objective is to find a way to build a telegraph line from Adelaide to Darwin. Darwin is already connected to Indonesia and, from there, to London. The idea of this telegraph line is to connect Sydney to the mother land. A few expedition was held, including the famous one by Burke and Wills (more details to come about this one too).

Stuart lead a few expeditions north, going a little bit further each time. Traveling as light as he can, taking with him only a few men and dozen of horses. Going as far as he can, and then coming back. At his third attempt after the beginning of the contest, he finally reach Darwin area on the 24th of july 1862. He came back to Adelaide, where the price won’t be given to him. Known to be a drunk sociopath, he instead had a rent. The price went, instead, to a search program. Half blind of all this time spent in the desert, he finally came back to scotland, where in died on the 5th of june 1866. Story says that there was only one person to attend the funeral of this man who explored so much of Australia.

The telegraph line was finally built following his advice. What of the constraint was to be able to find water source often on the road, to be able to build repeater office. Later, the Ghan railway follow part of the same trail too. As did the road, the Stuart Highway, that links Adelaide to Darwin. Some of the roadhouse, where you can often stop during the drive, are actually at the same place the old repeater office were…

Previously called “The Afghan Express” in homage to the Afghans Camelers who keep a permanent link for more than 150 years with the Red Center, “The Ghan” links Adelaide, in South Australia, to Darwin, in Northern Territories. A 2,979 kilometers trip that will takes you 3 days to complete.

The first track was following John MacDouall Stuart trail. Yes, the one who gives his name to the Stuart Highway. Still planning to tell you more about this one. On sunday the 4th of august 1929, the first train left Adelaide, boarding more than 100 passengers, heading to the remote town of Stuart. A town that, a few years later, will be named “Alice Springs”.

The Ghan crosses some of the most arid and hardest land of Australia. Subject to flash flood, fire, and even to termites. The legend says that one of the train staid blocked for 2 weeks at the same place, and that the motor engineer had to shoot wild goats to feed himself and the passengers.

In 1980, a new track was built, using concrete, termite proof. Still had to wait until 2004 for Darwin to be connected.

A trip aboard the Ghan is a unique experience, as are the landscape you’ll see from the train. MacDonnell Ranges in the south, the Red Center, and the tropical landscape in the north.

Interesting fact: the Ghan timetable is made for tourist. So the train stops for a few hours in Katherine, for passenger to be able to jump in a bus, and have a quick look around. Same in Alice, where you can stop for a few hours, or a few days, to have the time to visit Uluru. It’s not a real train trip. More a train cruse. Train drives by night when the landscape is not so much inspiring, and by day when you really want to see through your window. Definitely a unique way of traveling.

And what about the comfort? As usual, I’ve been traveling on a “poor” seat, taking the cheapest ticket I could find. And I just traveled from Katherine to Alice Springs. Only 1200 kilometers, traveled in 15 hours. People told me that the Ghan was a retirement house on wheel. That’s actually true if you stay in the most expensive part of the train. But if you’re happy with a simple seat, then you’ll meet all kind of travelers. Expect a nice comfort, but nothing exceptional. Wide folding seat, so you can rest, but with nothing to put your feet on. Less comfy that Amtrak in the States or Via Rail in Canada. But definitely better than the SNCF night train in France!

Anyway… the experience is unique and really nice. And I still keep the train as my favorite way of traveling!

I consider myself to be well balanced. I like this word, as in french, libra -my astrological sign- translate in “balance”. I do not believe in astrologic, but still like this coincidence. I’m not talking about being mentally balanced (hope I am!) but elemental balance. I’m feeling as strongly linked with water and fire, with air and earth. I like free diving as I like fire breathing. I like flying a kite as I like seating in the dust in the middle of the desert. I like being happy, wherever I am.

I was talking with Mara about Crater Lake, in Oregon. Probably one of the place I’ve find myself the most in peace. Air is absolutely transparent in perfect purity. As is the water of the lake. The rim cliffs, forming the caldera, embrace everything is a strong and unbreakable hug. The volcano’s fire calm down, a long time ago. But you can still feel it, everywhere around you. Is the creative fire, at the beginning of this perfect place. You can’t ignore it. I haven’t been to so many place where or the element mixes in such a perfect harmony. And that in those kind of place I feel in perfect harmony with my surrounding. In those kind of place that I can feel so strongly my own balance.

I slept in the back of the truck, with a amazing view on the sky. I heard a few times that Kakadu was one of the best place to look to a starry night. The park is not so far from here, and I guess we can enjoy the same awesome view. I’ve never seen so many starts before. Even the milky way is so intense that you can almost believe it’s a could in the sky. I didn’t really sleep during the night. I was just so happy… I still trust life, and she’s still giving back. I’m not asking anything else. Almost…

I wake up a little bit before sunrise. Took my camera, my flute and my didgeridoo. The water, the vapor twirling, the sandy ground and the trees around, the warmth, coming straight from the heart of the earth. I find my balance again. I find an other place where I’m in perfect harmony with my surrounding. The slowly howling of the didgeridoo just fits perfectly with the twirling of hot vapor.

Je me revendique comme une personne extrêmement équilibrée. Pour ça, j’aime bien utiliser le terme anglais « balanced » qui, même si je ne crois toujours pas en l’astrologie, convient très bien à la balance que je suis. Je ne parle pas d’un équilibre mental (que je pense quand même avoir !) mais d’un équilibre élémentaire. Je me sens autant en lien avec l’eau qu’avec le feu, avec l’air qu’avec la terre. J’aime faire de l’apnée et cracher du feu. J’aime faire voler un cerf volant et m’asseoir dans la poussière au milieu du désert. J’aime être heureux, peu importe l’endroit où je me trouve.

Je parlais avec Mara de Crater Lake, dans l’Oregon. Sans doute l’un des endroits où je me suis trouvé le plus en paix avec moi même. L’air est absolument transparent. D’une pureté parfaite. Tout comme l’eau du lac. Les lignes de crêtes déchiquetées des montagnes, et les falaises qui forment le cratère englobe le tout, dans un écrin qui semble indestructible. Le feu du volcan s’est apaisé il y a longtemps de cela. Mais on le sent toujours, tout autour de nous. Il est le feu créateur, à l’origine de cet endroit parfait. On ne peut l’ignorer. Je n’ai pas rencontré beaucoup de lieu où tout les éléments se rencontrent avec une telle harmonie. Ce sont dans les endroits comme ça que je me sens en complète communion avec ce qui m’entoure. Que je redécouvre mon propre équilibre intérieur.

J’ai dormi à l’arrière du camion, avec une vue imprenable sur le ciel. J’avais entendu dire depuis longtemps que Kakadu était l’un des plus beaux endroits pour observer le ciel. Je ne suis qu’à quelques centaines de kilomètres du parc. Je pense profiter du même ciel parfait. Jamais je n’ai vu autant d’étoiles. La voie lactée est tellement présente que l’on pense voir un nuage au milieu du ciel. Je n’ai pas vraiment dormi de la nuit. J’étais juste heureux, et bien. Je continue de faire confiance en la vie, elle continue à me le rendre. Je ne demande rien de plus. Ou presque…

Je me suis levé un peu avant le soleil. Mes parents vont bientôt devoir demander un exorcisme je crois. J’ai attrapé mon appareil photo, ma flûte, et mon didgéridoo. L’eau, les volutes de vapeur, le sol sableux et les arbres tout autour, la chaleur du ventre de la terre. J’ai retrouvé mon équilibre. J’ai trouvé un autre endroit où je suis bien. Où l’harmonie des éléments me permet de me dissiper doucement dans tout ce qui m’entoure. Le lent bourdonnement du didgéridoo s’est marié à merveille avec les volutes d’eau chaude.

Statement number 1 : improvisation is always better with constraints
Statement number 2 : what you give will come back to you

Mara had decided to leave earlier. She has two friends driving to Darwin on saturday night, planing to stop in Douglas Hot Springs on there way, in order to be on time at the airport on monday. Perfect for her. There might be a room for me if I want to come. I’m not sure. I prefer to tell her goodbye now. I know she’s already gone. And it’s hard to be with someone who’s not here…

She realized that she won’t be able to take her bag that we left with Alex and Petrina. She needs a solution. She’s not sure. I propose to be the solution. I just have to take her bag to the airport on monday evening. Hitch hiking with my bag and hers might be a little bit difficult. But she really wants to stop at the Hot Springs. And I’m more than happy to give that to her. I’ll find a solution. Everything will be alright.

On sunday morning, Bec give me a ride back to Katherine, in the car Toni -one of the festival organizer- lent her. As we’re driving back, my brain just had the good idea to have a great idea, connecting everything together… what if I rent a car for three days when I arrive in Katherine. I’ll have the time to discover the gorges, spend some time in Kakadu, and drop Mara’s bag at the airport. Definitely easier. Or… even better. I just have to go to the hot spring, find her there, and won’t even have to go to Darwin. I juggling with distances, times, dates… I can rent the car in Katherine and drop it in Katherine. Don’t need to go up to Darwin to take the train. Everything is just perfect! We meet Toni, in order to give her the car back. You won’t have anything if you don’t try anything. I ask Toni if I can lend the car for a few days. Paying her art company instead of a rental company. She’s okay, but I’ll have to wait until the end of the day. Perfect for me. Just have a quiet day in Katherine. I like this option.

I like the way everything just fit together. Adding a constraint that create a great solution. Helping at the festival, and being help back after that.

I jump into the car, heading to Douglas Hot Springs. Arrive there a few hours later, by night. I was thinking to arrive there, in a little quiet place. Finding ten peoples around a bone fire, and just say “hi Mara”. It’s a 3 days long week end. There’s more than a hundred cars in the camping. People and tents everywhere. I have no idea what I’m supposed to look for. I drive slowly, but it won’t work this way. Park the car, and start walking. Will be easier. Luck is on my side, one more time. I find Mara in less than 5 minutes.

I like to appear at the light of a campfire, playing to flute to introduce quietly myself. I don’t have this opportunity so often… I heard Mara saying “that’s beautiful”. She has not realize yet. But then, she recognize the sounds, and turn back, surprise. I’m happy to create those kind of surprise. To do some magic. I’m happy to see her again.

What should I say, where should I start… I recognize I don’t really know. The week that’s just ending has kind of change my life. On the more positive way. I realize that since I’ve left Melbourne, a big part of my travel has become a personal journey. Meetings after meetings, amazing experiences ate amazing experiences… at such a hight speed! All that make me think, and think, and think. I’m becoming an endless stream of idea, inspirations and thoughts. My brain is just bubbling every where. I just regret I didn’t have the time to write all that goes through my mind on the last few days.

Mara has been the perfect conclusion of this interior journey. Mara who lives in a world that fascinated me. A world of energy, love, spirit, sharing… always connected to earth and air. Mara and her wandering flute… yes, I’ve find in her a spiritual guide. During one week, I’ve been a continuous stream of questions. I felt so many time as a child, eager to learn everything. « why… ? ». Mara give me back a lot of question too. Trying to know my own opinion, my own way of seeing things. Our two worlds have been facing each other. I recognize that mine is more rational, more reel. But is becoming more and more a non material one. This energy, that comes from people, from places, I’ve been feeling it for a long time now. I’ve always doubt of it. Always trying to find a explanation that would please my ex scientific brain. I’ve stop doubting. I’ve stop trying to find an explanation. I’ve just accept the way it is. Everything is energy. Any scientist will confirm that. You just need to find how sensitive you are to those energies. I’m sur that Mara, and the red heart of Australia, have both been a catalyzer on me. I’m feeling more. I’m more aware. I’m more open. And I’m really interest to see how I’m going to use all that. I’m finally awake.

There are lots of truth in this world. Everyone has its own, and I thing that lots of those truth are real and accurate. I’ve been wandering around the world for quiet a while know, looking for my own truth. I don’t agree with Mara on everything. My own truth is taking its own shape slowly. Yes, I’m still a learning kid. I don’t want to be put in a box. I don’t want to become the perfect hippie. Mara is no caricature. Mara is an archetype. I take in the hippie move what I like, what I’m interested in. Specially if I discover it by myself. And I leave what I don’t like. I’m still enjoying burgers. I don’t eat any seeds, or vitamins complement. I still enjoy gluten. And the word “mushroom” still make me think of “salad”. I don’t believe in spiritual elevation using drugs. I want to be awake, but by myself, with no drug involved. I’ll go at my own speed. But I often forget my shoes when I go for a walk. Walking barefoot remind me nice childhood memories. I’ve never stopped to love sunrise and sunset, and when the moon rise, I’m often watching the horizon line.

At Wide Open Space festival, a perfect morning music (understand “dubstep”) made me practice the staff just as I woke up, just for the pleasure of doing it. I’ve started doing it again. For one week now, my day starts with half an hour of staff practicing. Some didge too, i I have the time. This morning, after a little while, I even stop using the staff, to be more free to dance. With a perfect argument: “I dancing give me so much energy, why am I only dancing from 11 PM to 2 AM ?”. I don’t do any tai chi, or morning yoga. I’ve find my own receipt. My own truth. By myself, just randomly. And I love going this way.

The week end up on a fireworks, at Barunga festival. An aboriginal culture and sport festival. Mara really wanted to come, and I liked the program. There was no reason not to come! Alex and Petrina (with whom we really had an awesome but short week) put us in contact with one of the organizer of the festival. They were looking for 2 volunteers, starting friday morning. Just perfect! And that’s how we ended up in an aboriginal community, lost in the middle of nowhere. That’s where in met Byron, from California, and Beck, from Victoria Australia. Both living in the same universe than Mara. I’ve been only the watching. But they took me under there protection, and warmly bring me in there own world. We all met each other. We are all happy. The perfect happiness that come with those magical meeting. I’ll probably meet again Beck and Byron. I really hope so. And Mara? Mara is gone. Taking a huge part of me with her. And showing me my own daemon. Funny how subconsciousness works. The daemon I though mine was gone a long ago. I had confirmation at COmest. But a new one took its place. And that will be my next goal. Get rid of this unwanted guest. I’m feeling that Australia red heart will be perfect to help me in that.

Today is going to be a strange day… I have to drive up to Darwin, but then hitch hike my way back. Strange idea might say some. I guess I agree. I guess I like to do strange things. We agree with Mara that it doesn’t really make sense that she comes with me just for the pleasure of hitch hiking back. Mara’s and Gabrielle’s roads split here.

Just after Katherine, we stop to pick up a hitch hiker. She’s going to Darwin. I always stop for hitch hiker, but knowing that I’ll be doing exactly the same thing tonight… some call it “karma”. We have lots of thing to talk about with Gabrielle, and we were planning to do it on the road. After a little chat with the girl, she goes to sleep, giving us all the time we were hoping to have. The landscape is amazing, but I’m not checking it. I’ll see it on the way back. And I’ll probably come back to Darwin one day. We just stop for a quick lunch break, and start driving soon after. A little bit in a hurry. We’re a little bit late when we arrive in Darwin. I still take the time to drive up to the end of the road. In front of me is the ocean. That’s over. After crossing north america from east to west and west to east a couple of time, I’ve no drive across Australia from south to north. One more road on my list. And what an amazing road!

I promise. I’ll tell you more about the Stuart Highway at some time. But for now, I just say good bye to Gabrielle. She might comeback to Katherine in a few days. Also say good bye to our passenger, and drive the van back to his home. I recognize one of the giro. She was working in Melbourne, a few months ago. Seems that they relocate there employer the same way they relocate there van. The girl who take care of me is a really friendly one (big change from usual). Her colleague, on the other way, is as antipathic as they use to be. When she heard that I was doing a relocation, she comments by saying “he’s lucky we didn’t keep the bond from him”. Yes, I was 30 minutes late… but anyway… everything went well. I drop the van, and walk back to the Stuart Highway, rising my thumb, heading south this time.

It tools me a little while before the first car stop and drop me 30 km further. The second car took 45 minutes to stop, for a 100 km drive. Problem: when the guy drops me, the sun has set a little while ago. Not the best time to hitch hike. I do have my tent, but was hoping to be back tonight. I still give it a try. Talk to a guy at the gas station. Tell him that it’s important. He agrees to take me to Katherine. Doesn’t seem really motivate. We would definitely not have stop if I hadn’t talk to him. I’m definitely really thankful. Two hours later, I’m back in Katherine, where Terry pick me, avoiding me a 7 km walk. Mara is already asleep.

I left Katherine at 10 AM. Back 10 hours later, after driving 330 km and hitch hike the same road back. Strange feeling of a totally useless day. But sometime, I guess, you have to!

The rain stopped during the night. Good news. I saw to much sign “flood way” and I don’t really want to find a blocked road. I’m wondering how the relocation company would react if we’re late because of the weather. I don’t really want to check.

The good thing, when you drive a lot for the first two days, is that you can take it easy for the next two one. We’re planning to sleep in Katherine tonight. Nice opportunity to Mara and I to meet our next host. We only have 300 km to drive, and we’re looking forward our next stop: Hot Springs! Mara knows the amazing Umquat Hot Springs in Oregon, but we have no idea what to expect from this one. One thing is sure: expectations are hight!

We arrive on a big resort parking. The place seems really touristic, and we are a little bit worried about the price we’ll have to pay. We decide to have a look, just in case. To discover a very nice place, really quiet, and absolutely free! We can also swim in the river, a little bit further. A river at the perfect temperature for me.

Springs are also a time for meeting people again. Gabrielle find some of her friend, while I bump into Anna and Florent, and in our little tasmanian family. We decide to start with the river. It’s the first time I’m swimming since I’m in Australia, and I discover I was really missing it. Sometime, water is really cold, some time really hot. The river is a mix of different temperatures zones. The idea is to find a warm one, and stay in. We’re in a crocodile area, but a sign tell us that there is only river crocodiles here, and those one doesn’t try to eat human. Sometime, salt crocodiles swim up to here, but there’s trap, and none as been seen for a little while. So we’re suppose to be safe. Good news! After a little bath in the river, we decide to move to the pool, where the water is constantly at the same temperature.

One hot spring leading to another, we go on to the next. Tens kilometers further. People say that it’s a wilder one, way more natural. We discover quickly that it’s not really a hot spring, but more a hot river. There’s a few tourists, who knew that, and have floating noodles, and just follow the stream. As sportive as we are, we just do some swimming, in the middle of a paradisiac landscape. After a few turn, a ladder take us out of the water, so that we can walk back, instead of swimming up stream.

Quick little lunch break, and we are back on the road. The day is behind us now, but it was for a good reason. It was definitely great to take the time to swim and relax. We arrive in Katherine an hour later, just on time to meet Alex as he’s closing the art gallery. We take some time to talk with him. The first contact is really nice. He gives us a quick look of the house, where we’ll be able to park the van for the night. Looks really comfy and quiet. We’re going to love this place, I think.

We drive back to town, 7 km from here, to cook some food, and to listen to some music. The evening is really quiet and amazing. Philosophical talk, personal thoughts and story telling… once again, the link between the three of us is really strong, and I’m really happy with that…

If we wanted to sleep at the Devils Marbles, it was also in order to catch the sunrise in an amazing landscape. Over the last few weeks, I’ve seen so many sunrise! And I think that I just love this feeling. I might almost even think that I like waking up early. My clock woke me softly from my sleep. Outside, the colors are already amazing. Gabrielle has a hard time to wake up. She seems to be more interested to enjoy the view from the van window. I quickly prepare three teas, grab my flute, and join Mara on her rock.

There’s magical moment in life. Moments you know you’ll never forget. You just have to close your eyes to remember it. Listening to Mara, singing and playing flute, while watching the sunrise, is definitely one of those moment. When everything just seems absolutely perfect, when you feel that you are at the perfect place, at the perfect time, with the perfect peoples. I tell her a story I had in my mind for quite a while, but that I didn’t have any opportunity to share yet. It’s a story about sun, sunrise, and solstice. One that just fits with this perfect moment. I discover that telling stories in english is a hard exercise, but that I can do. And that I like. I spend some more time with Mara, watching the landscape, and being thankful to the sun via our music.

Gabrielle is waiting for us in the van, still a little bit asleep. Quick breakfast, before we go exploring the neighborhood, under a daily light this time. We all go out our own pace, in our own direction. The other camper van are leaving, one after an other.

We are the last to leave. I feel that I left a peace of my soul behind me. I feel like, as in Uluru, Kata Tjuta and Kings Canyon, I connect with all the surroundings. I might come back. Or maybe not. It doesn’t matter anyway. I’m feeling so well. I’m happy.

As the day before, there’s no real interest on the road. We just go on. We have an other objective for tonight: the Daly Waters Pub, who’s actually the only next interesting point on the highway. If the landscape south of Alice Springs is inspiring, the north looks less interesting. Still a little bit of a desert, but not enough for me. Kilometers follow kilometer.

Once more, we reach our destination just after sunset. The Daly Waters Pub is famous all over Australia. A pause that people should not miss. I easily understand why.

We bump into the tasmanian family again, who invite us to there table. There’s a show every evening, and the place is full. A one man show from an humorist, who tells jokes, stories, sings some songs, and share some thoughts. There’s definitely a great atmospheres, and lots of laughs. For the part I can understand… Quite often, I share a look with Gabrielle, before laughing… because we don’t understand a word! Anyway… we really enjoy the evening!